Winter in Norway is nothing short of magical. As the landscape is painted in snow, the world transforms into a dreamscape of powdered mountains and icy fjords, calling for adventure. Beyond the breathtaking scenery and the ethereal glow of the northern lights, there’s a gathering unlike any other—one that captivates the hearts of those who seek it. This is the season of the ocean’s apex predator, the killer whale.
What is it about these magnificent creatures that draws us in so irresistibly? For me, it’s their boundless curiosity and the intricate social bonds that mirror our own. It’s the thrill of being in the wild, braving the cold to witness them in their element. The striking contrast of their black-and-white markings, the way their dorsal fins slice through the surface—between two worlds—leaves me mesmerized. I’m endlessly grateful to share this experience with others who feel the same pull toward their lure.
PUST Sauna: A Floating Arctic Ritual
In the heart of Tromsø, my favorite way to prepare both body and mind for an Arctic expedition is to embrace the local sauna culture, a tradition that pairs perfectly with an icy plunge into the Arctic Ocean.
For some, the idea of dipping into glacial waters seems daunting, especially when the air hovers around 41°F. But that first shocking immersion awakens the senses in a way nothing else can.
We begin by letting the sauna work its magic, waiting until sweat drips down our shoulders, melting away the exhaustion of a 15+ hour flight journey. Pushing past our comfort zones, we focus on our breath, letting the heat do its work.
A little nervous about plunging into the frigid ocean for the first time in almost a year, I grab my Nomadix Original Towel and step outside.
"Should I dive in headfirst?"
Laughter erupts as my attempt at a graceful dive turns into a full-on belly flop. We banter, daring each other to stay in just a little longer. Then, in a twist of irony, Austin—who was the first to step out—slips on the dock, sending us into a fit of cackles from the water below. These are the moments that make you forget about the cold entirely.
The experience is as invigorating as it is communal. Within moments, we’re back in the sauna, sitting on our towels, warmth returning as we share stories with people who were strangers just minutes ago.
Back and forth, ocean to sauna, the energy shifts—endorphins flood in, and a deep sense of aliveness takes over.
At PUST, we’re reminded of the beauty of spontaneous connections. A French family shares their story of sailing the world while “boat-schooling” their three children. They, too, are here to swim with the whales. Moments like these reaffirm my belief that everyone we meet has the potential to change our lives. And if you’re here for the right reasons, the whales can, too.
This floating sauna isn’t just a physical reset; it’s a mental one. Cold plunges train the mind to stay calm under pressure, to lean into discomfort—a skill that will prove invaluable on our expedition ahead.
Vulkana Spa: A Sustainable Sanctuary on Arctic Waters
Once a humble fishing vessel, Vulkana Spa has been transformed into a floating oasis of relaxation and sustainability. Powered by renewable energy and designed with natural materials, it blends wellness with eco-consciousness at its core.
Onboard, they have a BYOT (bring your own towel) philosophy. Guests can soak in a saltwater hot tub, take in panoramic views from the sauna, or unwind in a zen lounge beside a crackling fireplace—all while drifting through the Arctic’s breathtaking landscapes.
But the real highlight? You can plunge straight from the upper deck into the icy ocean below.
My friends and I lounge in the hot tub, nervously discussing who will be the first to jump. Just then, Ariane steps out of the steaming spa and shouts, “I have an idea!” Before we know it, she’s climbing onto the railing and cannonballing fearlessly into the Arctic water. Her sheer excitement makes it impossible to resist following.
I grab a Nomadix Original Towel, for her to dry off on the deck as she climbs back up, laughing through chattering teeth. Then, it’s my turn.
"Five, four, three, two, one—"
The rush is exhilarating, and as old and new friends cheer each other on, I realize that warmth isn’t just about temperature—it’s about shared experiences, about conquering fear together. As the snowy peaks surround us, we’re ready to embrace the Arctic chill with a smile.
A Wild Encounter: Norway’s Orcas
If seeing orcas in their natural habitat (the only way they should ever be seen) is on your bucket list, Norway—above the Arctic Circle—is the ultimate destination.
Every winter, from late October to late January, Norway’s fjords become a stage for one of nature’s most mesmerizing spectacles. Massive pods of North Atlantic Type 1 orcas and humpback whales glide into the frigid waters, following the herring migration.
Our eyes scan the sky for seagulls and the sea for telltale blows, hoping for our first encounter. As the expedition host, my captain, Storm, and I remind our guests: we are not here to chase whales.
We practice remaining at least 30 metres outside their social zone, which gives them space to build our trust and decide if they want to interact. Orcas display five distinct behaviors in Norway, and recognizing them is key to ensuring a safe and ethical interaction:
1. Hunting
In November, massive schools of herring flood the fjords, and orcas hunt with astonishing coordination. They use tail slaps to stun fish, forming bait balls—an extraordinary display of intelligence and teamwork.
Ethically, we remained on the boat to observe without disturbing this important part of their survival.
2. Feeding
After hunting comes the feast. Orcas move methodically, diving and resurfacing in the same area, their calm demeanor signaling satisfaction. Humpbacks often join in, lunging from below to steal their hard-earned meal.
For a moment, all we see are thousands of shimmering fish—then BAM. The orcas begin carousel feeding along the edges, giving us the show of a lifetime.
3. Playing
This is my favorite behavior. Breaching, spy-hopping, and vocalizing. Their hauntingly beautiful calls echo across the fjords.
We enter the water as silently as possible, blending in. Moments later, a baby orca and an older calf emerge, circling us in curiosity, welcoming our divers and crew onboard into their world.
Their sentience left us in tears as they swam away. They turn back instantly, as if checking to see if we’re okay. We are—but we’re crying tears of pure joy.
4. Traveling
Pods move fast, in synchronized rhythm, cutting smoothly through the water.
As they pass, we watch in awe, wrapped in a Nomadix Puffer Blanket, while the golden Arctic sun paints the fjords in pastel hues. They are likely moving fast towards their next feeding ground. Watching the power of their propulsion as they dove into the sunset is a memory that will forever live rent-free in my mind.
5. Resting
One evening, as we return to the marina, we spot a pod resting in the moonlit waters.
The pods look clustered, with little forward motion, and individuals floating or moving very slowly. They stay closer together in a relaxed state.
Just as we thought the day was over It was such a treat and a testament that you never know what to expect in the wild.
In these quiet moments, we simply observe—no engagement, no intrusion; pure reverence for these incredible creatures.
For those fortunate enough to be in the presence of killer whales, these magnificent creatures evoke a deep sense of wonder and respect, embodying both the untamed power and intricate intelligence of the natural world. It’s an experience that leaves us united by the shared thrill of surrendering to nature’s extremes.